German watches are sometimes free from any pointless particulars. No frills, no fuss, simply clear, elegant watches. Whether or not you take a look at manufacturers like A. Lange & Söhne, Glashütte Unique, Moritz Grossmann or at smaller impartial manufacturers, most of them supply very elegantly, fashionable watches. One among these independents is Stefan Kudoke, founder and watchmaker of Kudoke Watches. Apart from his intricately detailed skeletonised and engraved items, his HANDwerk assortment reveals typical German traits. We go hands-on with the Kudoke HANDwerk 1.
Who’s Stefan Kudoke?
Stefan Kudoke is new right here on MONOCHROME Watches, however has been lively for over ten years now, along with his model Kudoke Watches. Often, this sort of storyline continues describing the lineage somebody has in watchmaking, by both a father or grandfather or whatnot, however Stefan’s story is a little bit totally different. With no household background in watchmaking, Stefan began his schooling from scratch. Below the steering of his lecturers, he realized the craftsmanship wanted to change into a watchmaker himself.
After graduating with honours on the age of 22, Stefan labored for Glashütte Unique, Breguet, Blancpain and Omega, in each the problems and repair departments. This led him to ultimately pursue the dream of making his personal watches, and thus Kudoke Watches was born. His purpose is to contribute to the preservation of conventional watchmaking abilities, one thing I can solely applaud. Below his personal model, he gives three sorts of watches. The HANDwerk assortment covers conventional handmade watches such because the Kudoke 1 we’re reviewing right here. The KUNSTwerk assortment is about engraved or skeletonised watches in very restricted numbers. Third, the YOURwerk assortment is devoted to distinctive, bespoke watches.
The Kudoke HANDwerk 1 is a watch that doesn’t reveal all its secrets and techniques from the beginning. From the appears to be like of issues, it is extremely restrained in design. Virtually a bit, dare I say it, too easy. However, relaxation assured, this can be a German watch so all of it concerning the most interesting particulars. German watchmaking is actually a minimalistic strategy to performance. Kind follows perform, the place every part that’s pointless is eradicated. The emphasis is positioned on readability, simplicity, symmetry, as Xavier defined in his article “Germans do it higher”.
Kudoke Kaliber 1
The purpose for Stefan Kudoke has been to create his personal motion, fairly than counting on third events. After greater than ten years of skeletonising and engraving watches, he was lastly capable of current his personal calibre throughout Baselworld 2018. A yr later, he showcases his Kudoke HANDwerk 1 and a pair of (which has a day/evening indicator as an alternative of a small seconds) as an AHCI-candidate.
The design and development of Kaliber 1, as it’s referred to as, is impressed by historic English pocket watch actions. The hand-wound motion is seen by the sapphire caseback. The design is easy and chic but placing to the attention because of its symmetry: the steadiness wheel at one finish, a single massive and hand-engraved bridge holding it in place, and a frosted ending on the whole floor of the complete bridge.
This frosted impact is achieved by a method referred to as reaming, very similar to a grenage ending. The bridge is positioned in a mixture of oil and abrasive materials (often glass granulate or very positive sand) and meticulously floor in circles. Your complete bridge and the steadiness cock are additionally completed with a hand-polished, convex edge, one thing that’s extraordinarily difficult to attain. This can be a painstaking and really delicate ending method that not many can grasp.
Kudoke HANDwerk 1
The dial of the Kudoke HANDwerk 1 is silver with a really positive graining on the floor. The centrally mounted hour and minute hand are made in metal and blued by hand by Stefan. The hour hand has a tip formed like an infinity image. The chapter ring for the hour and minute markings, extraordinarily slender by the best way, creates a way of depth. The chapter ring is embellished with Roman numerals at three, 6, 9 and 12 o’clock, dots in between for the remaining hours and smaller dots for 1-minute increments. An identical small seconds ring, with one other tempered blue hand at 9 o’clock completes the time indication. Reverse the small seconds indicator is a Kudoke nameplate, offering a little bit of visible steadiness. On the backside fringe of the dial, yow will discover a touch of the origin of the watch.
The 39mm vast by 9.5mm excessive metal case is completely polished, from the stepped bezel to the case band and the screw-in caseback. A really good contact is the slight protrusion of the bezel and the caseback so as to add a little bit of profile to the facet of the case. The onion-style crown is barely flattened and engraved with a “Okay” for Kudoke. Winding the motion with the crown may be very simple. The grip is excellent and also you get a pleasant sense of resistance when dealing with it, not an excessive amount of however not too little. Identical goes for setting the time. After all, sapphire crystals are used for each the back and front, and the watch is water resistant to 50m.
The modest dimensions of the watch make this a really snug one to put on, as it would match 99,9% of parents simply positive. The form of the lugs may be very elegant and barely angled down. It’s paired with a black alligator leather-based strap and a cultured metal pin-buckle – a folding clasp is non-compulsory. The Kudoke HANDwerk 1 may be very attractively priced, contemplating the quantity of handwork concerned. It would value you EUR 6.303,- earlier than taxes, which is a reasonably penny however does purchase you a hand-finished, in-house motion! Total I used to be impressed with the watch in the course of the time I had it. Very snug, very well-executed and really elegant on the wrist.
For extra data, go to Kudoke.eu